Getting The Fit Right: A Guide To Helmet Sizing

An open face helmet leaves the face exposed, which some riders prefer for shorter journeys, city riding, or a more classic look on a café racer or scrambler. It offers less coverage than a full face design, and riders who choose one should weigh that trade off honestly rather than assume it based on style.

None of this needs to be bought at once. Building a complete kit over time, prioritising the areas most exposed in a typical fall, is a realistic way to get there.

A handcrafted helmet shell starts with a base material, commonly fibreglass or a composite blend, layered and shaped by hand rather than produced purely by mould and machine. Each layer adds strength, and the shaping stage is where a lot of the time in production actually goes.

Certification is not a formality. It is the baseline that separates a genuine protective helmet from something that only looks the part. Any helmet worth wearing on the road should carry a current, verifiable certification.

Full face and open face helmets suit different kinds of riding, and the right choice usually comes down to where and how you ride rather than looks alone. A full face helmet covers the chin and jaw, giving more protection in a wider range of impacts, and tends made to order helmet suit faster roads and longer distances.

Getting helmet sizing right starts with a proper head measurement, taken with a soft tape around the largest part of the head, just above the eyebrows and ears. That figure points to a starting size, but it is only a starting point, since head shape varies as much as head size.